Eating Nose to Tail


 
Due to my total obsession with getting my thesis done, my partner Ross has been doing more than his fair share of the cooking.  His most recent dish is jambalaya, which he makes with sausage and okra. 

Recently Ryan Adams in his Offal of the Week post for Eat Me Daily wrote about gizzards.  Sausage, okra and gizzard jambalaya immediately came to mind, even though I had never actually cooked a gizzard.  A container of chicken gizzards at my local big box store cost $1.00 and were very easy to locate.  Finding the gizzards was the easy part, next came cooking.

After looking into some recipes, these tough little pieces of fowl obviously needed to be cooked for a long time.  The gizzard is a muscle in the neck of most fowl that is used to pulverize their food, (most fowl do not have teeth) and because they are doing the work of teeth they get to be pretty tough.  My solution: braising.

The plan is to add the already braised gizzards to the jambalaya with the sausage and okra during the final cooking stages.  Therefore the gizzards needed to be braised by the time they were added to the jambalaya.
Picture
First I rinsed the gizzards under cold water to clean off some of the blood.  Then with a sharp knife I cut the gizzards into smaller pieces.  Gizzards often come intact, which means they are shaped like an 'O', I separated the knobs of meat into smaller bundles.  My idea was that this would allow the gizzards to cook faster.
Picture
Next, I seasoned them with coarse salt and some cracked black pepper, and added the seasoned gizzards to oil heated in a dutch oven. Once they were seared I added a mug of water and a few dried chilis.  Tragically I had no stock on hand.  Once my liquid was up to a gentle simmer I covered the whole mess with a lid and it sent in a 325 degree oven.

An hour and a half later the gizzards were tender.  I placed the gizzards and the now flavorful cooking liquid in a container to wait for Ross to cook his jambalaya.
Picture
Ross was adamant about tasting any additions I wanted to put in his jambalaya.  He found the gizzards a tad livery but mild enough to be an acceptable addition to his dish.  I think the gizzards tasted far more like a chicken thigh than any liver I had ever tasted. 
Picture
Dinner was delicious.  The sausage and okra were a perfect pair as usual, and the gizzards seemed to slip pretty easily into the mix.  I'm looking forward to getting back to eating nose to tail more regularly.  I miss my kitchen terribly and Ross is quickly becoming a better cook than me, which distresses my ego.

I would heartily recommend trying out braised chicken gizzards, I have a feeling they would crisp up nicely in a pan with some oil after they're braised.  Experiments for another post.
 


Comments

Joel
07/30/2009 22:54

Totally jealous. I love okra, maybe too much. I happen to agree with you on the taste of gizzards. It's very mild, like meat. Ever have a taco with buche? Same thing, but with porky tastiness.

Reply
Sydney
07/31/2009 06:36

I've never had a taco with buche, but now I'm going to have to find one.

Okra is one of my favorites too, I happen to love anything that's kinda slimy.

:D

Reply
Joel
07/31/2009 09:17

You don't want to have it too often, considering its cooked in lard. :D

Reply
Joel
07/31/2009 12:54

Looking through Yelp and Google, looks like you'll have to come out to California to have buche at a taqueria, or make it yourself.

Some random links:
http://www.burritoblog.com/2006/04/buche_yummy_pig.html
http://foodtease.com/2009/02/yummy-tummy-pig-stomach/

I've visited multiple taquerias and each lady working the counter made a gesture indicating the throat going down to, but before the stomach. So I'm guessing its really the esophagus despite internet claims otherwise. Always fried in lard.

Reply
Sydney
08/02/2009 11:17

I love lard, especially lard pastry crusts. In fact I've got some pig fat in the fridge and I can't wait to use it.

I'll have to add that to my long list of reasons to go to California ;)

Reply
sarah r
08/08/2009 12:25

Hey! Found your blog through someone else's, don't remember, but thought of this recipe when I saw a pack of chicken gizzards & hearts for something like a quarter a pound, and I'm intending jambalaya. Never et a gizzard but figured if I'm gonna be a poor hippy farmer someday I should practice. Thank you for this blog!

Also - I just ran over to my boyfriend and exclaimed, "Why are we not keeping pigs? Look at this. Pig fat. Crackly bits and lard. BUTTER. You can make pie with pigs. PIGS MAKE BUTTER." And he said "yes dear" and I was happy.

Reply
Sydney
08/08/2009 14:25

@ Sarah

I'm so glad you like the blog! Gizzards are great but my real favorites are chicken livers, they are SO versatile. If I could I'd eat them every week, but than all the posts would be about chicken livers :)

Lard pastry is flippin' amazing! Best pie ever. I'm thinking of doing a cured pig fat recipe sometime in the future as well. I <3 pig fat.

Let me know how your jambalaya goes, I'd love to hear about it.

Reply
bethany
10/31/2011 04:18

great techqnieue maestro r$ndr whiskey is so cheap im thrarhsed

Reply
Not behtany
10/31/2011 04:19

ok thata wasnt bethany that was me anthony hehehee ehe so drunk

Reply
ryan
02/03/2012 20:04

look great, though note gizzards are abdomen, not the throat, that would be the crop, which just acts as a storage organ

Reply



Leave a Reply